East to Amman there are many desert castles. One of them is Azraq, just a 100 km out of Amman.
The oasis of Azraq has a strategic value and is the only water place in a huge desert of rocks. The black basalt structure is seen already from far away. It was the first desert castle out of three we have seen on our tour through Jordan. Unprepared and not knowing anything about it to me it was a delusion in the very first impact. Only after I got into it I could enjoy it fully.
The first amazing thing one can see arriving to the Qasr Azraq is the stone door. It’s entirely of two stones and heavy to move but possible thanks to palm tree oil. For ancient times I think the best ever door if closed properly and with no way to open from outside.
Entering the structure one walks through a small entrance hall and into the center courtyard. This one is huge and holds a few buildings. In this entrance hall there is a carved Roman board game on the floor which tells me that soldiers sat there playing games while waiting to pass their turn.
In the huge courtyard there are the remains of a small mosque maybe of the Umayyad caliphate’s period. Each corner of the 80 meters long surrounding walls has an oblong tower.
The structure is built with black basalt, the only material found in the area to a lack of trees at all.
The location is very strategic as it is in an oasis surrounded by nothing than a rock desert. Water supply is guaranteed. Several civilizations already used the place for their home like the Umayyads when the castle was built on an ancient structure.
History tells us that the Nabataeans were here before the Romans came. These built the first Azraq castle which gave the basis for later constructions. Byzantine and Umayyad let their culture here as well. The present remains are from mid 13th century when Izz ad-Din Aybak, emir of the Ayyubids, redesigned the whole fortress.
A famous person was stationed here as well: T. E. Lawrence. He came in 1917 during the Great Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Turks. He sat in the chamber above the entrance and had a perfect view on the flat surroundings which also were a good airfield. In my mind I saw Peter O’Toole sitting at a table, looking out on the desert and planing new attacks.
Although surprised by the dark appearance of the castle it gives a good idea of the history and the people who lived here. The book ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’ by Lawrence give even a better idea of the place. Since the movie, the place is a major tourist attraction.
After leaving the Azraq castle I was first disappointed and only in the evening I understood the history. The place doesn’t offer a lot to see. Interesting is the small museum of mosaics which are really beautiful. Amazing also the way the construction is done as second floors were created with overlapping stones and there laid on the floor of the second level.
I recommend having a book with you and sit there in the shadow and reading the history to fully understand the building and the function.
Azraq/Jordan:
For further information:
Jordan Tourism Board
There is an admission fee of 2 JD, no guide available (if not with a bus group) and can be visited as long as desired
