I have been just one and a half day in Beaune in Burgundy but I already fell in love with this lovely little town. I had also only two little walks there but I think it is really a place worth for a longer stay.
In the beginning of the year I put France on my list to go to this year but like always in my live thinks have been gone there own way without asking me and so of course France had been still on my list. BUT… and that is really the funniest part that it happened a friend of mine asked me if I can meet him in France for just less than a couple of days. Of course I took the chance immediately to see him after a lot of years AND to go to France as well. Life is always so amazing!
So my short stay was in Burgundy in the lovely town of Beaune. I had to drive nearly a thousand kilometers and enjoyed every single one! The beautiful landscape, the mountains with the super greenish rivers, small villages so accurate, clean and full of history… often I love more the way than the destination, goal, aim…
Beaune is situated in the middle of Burgundy, not far from Dijon (the city where the famous mustard is from) and the wine capital of the region. The city has just around 22.000 inhabitants and is surrounded by a smooth hilly Cote d’Or with great vineyards. The land itself seems to be a plain where the eyes can see sometimes even Geneva.
The sight-seeing goes over the historical market in the old city, the famous hospice, the clock tower and the church Notre Dame. I have walked in the wonderful old town and visited the hospice.
I saw the hospice for the first time the evening before the visit on a walk through the town and looking for a place where to eat. We found a restaurant with just one free table not too far away. All the others where fully booked already, and that on a Wednesday! Anyway we had a perfect dinner!
The hospice was founded in the 15th century by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of Burgundy at those times. It is called also Hotel-Dieu de Beaune and was a former charitable almshouse and used as a hospital for the poor. It is one of the finest architectures of the 15th century in France and is now in part a museum where the most famous and important charity wine auction is held here every year which can rise or lower the wine prices of all France.
After the end of the 100 Years’ War in 1435 there were still a lot of roaming marauding bands. They were provoking not only killing but also misery and famine. Nicolas Rolin and his wife wanted to give the poor people a place where to these people could come for help. As hospital and refuge many people found a place with peace and no fear anymore. ‘Les soeur hospitalières de Beaune’ were a religious order just established here in order to take care of the people.
It was a Flemish architect to built this amazing and highly artistic place. In the incredible decoration there are also a lot of paintings of Rolin, his wife and the family. The wooden panel paintings are spectacular!
The two-storied buildings are arranged around an inner courtyard and the painted roof tiles are typical for the time and region. Here are some examples of the kitchen, an apothecary and the offices. The main halls where the patients found their bed are also highly decorated and are looking like alcoves. Honestly in a hospital like that I would go even con pleasure. It has nothing to do with the cold, unfriendly, horrible hospital feelings of today. The surroundings are so important for a patient and here it’s clearly understood.
On 1st January 1452 the first patient came in. Until the late 1970s (!) uninterruptedly sick, disabled people, pregnant women and orphans came in and found treat and refuge. That is more than 500 years! I think that is amazing.
The hospice during the centuries got a lot of donations in form of money, land, vineyards and works of art. It still is today very important for the culture and economy of Burgundy.
The famous wine auction is held every year on the 3rd Sunday in November and is a three day festival with food and of course the best wines. The Hospice owns vineyards classified Grand and Premier Cru. Professional and private buyers are bidding on these wines, Christie’s is organizing the auction. A barrel can rise easily also until 25.000 Euro and the auction is an indicator for the Burgundy wines’ costs.
I entered the Hospice in a sunny afternoon. A lot of people and an overwhelming view on the inner court were my first impression. I think a took a hundred shots of the court and the roof. It was possible to have a audible guide, I didn’t take. I wanted to concentrate on what I see and not listening to something and half seeing the beauty. I can read all afterwards as well.
It is hugh and I think a lot of people could be cured there in. I especially likes the alcove like beds with a curtain for privacy. The hospice gave me the feeling of loving sisters looking after the sicks, orphans were loved and young pregnant women found a secure place and a valued help to give birth to maybe even unwanted and fatherless babies. A much better start for the mother-child-relationship maybe.
There is of course also a nice little shop where one can find some books and beautiful other gadgets as a gift or souvenir.
As the Hospice is just in the center it’s possible to have a wonderful walk after the visit through the cobbled streets, have a look in great shops. Just opposite the entrance of the Hospice there is a huge book shop with also books in English language. Books about Burgundy, wine and Baune are partly highly interesting. A lot of nice gadgets, souvenirs, glass-work, gifts and more. I stayed another hour in here.
Anyone of you ever been to Beaune? What did you like most, what did you miss? Tell me in a comment ..
Beaune, Burgundy/France
For further information:
Beaune website
Hospices de Beaune (in French)
Love love love!!!